Like many small, quality focused wineries in Alsace, the Braun family has been making wine in the region for many centuries. Since the late 16th century, one generation after another of winemakers has coaxed out the finest expressions of the enchanting varietals Alsace is famous for. While throughout much of those centuries their agricultural efforts were focused on polyculture of various forms in addition to wine production, it was in the 1960’s that Camille Braun dedicated the family exclusively to viniculture exclusively.

This singular shift to focus on wine production has resulted in a quality that shines through with radiance. But as pedigree and exposure can sometimes overshadow pure quality in the broader wine world, their efforts are underrated and well, perhaps a bit of a secret? To those who seek out smaller producers for hidden gems, Domaine Braun should be on your list. Especially celebrated is their line of Crémants which reflect the highest ideals of Alsatian sparkling wine made in the traditional method.

Famous for it’s wines since the Middle Ages, Orschwihr lies about fifteen minutes south of Colmar tucked up on the foothills against a thick of forest, the Vosges mountains. Many of the finest terroirs and producers are located in this part of Alsace, and the region is overflowing with quality wines and delightful tasting opportunities.

Grand Cru Pfingstberg is situated directly next to Orschwihr to the north, of which Braun owns a section. They vinify parts of the illustrious Grand Cru Kaefferkopf, situated around Ammerschwihr, as well as several other unclassified terroir parcels around Orschwihr. They also have a variety of other parcels scattered around the immediate area.

Domaine Braun cultivates about 15 hectares of vines, organic and certified biodynamic since 2005. Despite a modest total production of about 8,000 bottles, the tasting menu comes out swinging with a wide selection of exceptional regional specialties. The results are truly a labor of love.

Quite interesting and immediately apparent was the effect of the sulfite free wines on their taste profile, specifically the Pinot Gris Nature. The lack of protection from oxygen afforded by the sulfites resulted in a pleasant and obvious nutty character, with characteristic fruit brightness taking a diminished, muted role. Fruit from the Pinot Gris Nature is harvested from the same parcel as Pinot Gris Lippelsberg, and vinified in almost identical fashion (both with oak and periodic battonnage for texture). The only difference being the use of sulfites in the latter, and the result is vividly apparent! I love making technical comparisons like this because it really allows you to isolate specific details that may alter the taste profile of two otherwise identical wines. Both are vinified in oak to provide some texture, but the Nature Pinot Gris had a very pleasant nutty, slightly oxidated profile resulting from the lack of protection that sulfites affords.

The Pinot Gris Lippelsberg shows a more terroir expressive, pure and vibrant fruit profile. At 3.7 g/l sugar, it also reflects their preference for a dry style of Pinot Gris. As Chantal Braun notes, “We really prefer dry Pinot Gris. We have one on the list which is 40g/l because some people like sweet wines [Pinot Gris Grand Cru Pfingstberg]. The tendency is to go with dry wines for more minerality, and easier to pair with food.”

Beginning with their distinguishing level beyond the basic regional and varietal wines is the Nature series. This is a trio of Sylvaner, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir that are made without additional sulfites. Overall, in keeping with biodynamic and organic philosophies, they only add a minimum level of sulfites to all their wines – with the Nature line it is no sulfites at all. This is primarily to appeal to a certain market segment that seeks out sulfite free wine.
These wines represent a pure reflection of nature in their production style as well, with healthy grapes harvested by hand, and only natural ambient yeasts doing their work. Fermentation at low temperature, and periodic batonnage to give texture and body.

Escalating the sense of focus and flavor concentration is their “B de Braun” and Terroir lines, these are parcels without formal classfication, but showing unique and expressive terroir that definitely escalates the concentration and depth from the broadly sourced varietals wines. This brings up an interesting topic developing in Alsace at the moment regarding the status of lieux-dits and “terroir” parcels of this nature. There is a long term project underway to introduce a Premier Cru level into the appellation system, in order to present a more nuanced quality classification system. Terroir parcels Lippelsberg, Uffholtz, Bollenberg, Effenberg, and Luft all fit into this potential category. (I may be writing a post on this topic.) This is a very interesting development, though with many things in France it’s a long term endeavor, so don’t hold your breath!

These middle parcels are expressive of pure fruit, unique minerality, they are fresh and concentrated. And in reflection of Alsace overall, they present a variety of soils: clay, calcaire soil. Riesling Effenberg is from 42v yr old vines, and Riesling Luft 2016 was the recipient of the 2018 Medaille d’Or des Riesling du Monde. Balanced well showing damp stones, bruised fruit, depth and sophistication.

Domaine Camille Brain

16 Grand Rue, 68500 Orschwihr, France
Tel: +33 3 89 76 95 20   |   Website
Tasting room hours:
Mon-Fri: 9-12p, 1:30-6:30p, Sat: 9-12p, 1:30-5:30p, closed Sunday.
Always call ahead to check hours and availability!